Saturday, February 27, 2010

Road Trip: TA's Weeklu Update 2-27-2010

Happy 2010 Olympics!

 

Another seven doors are open on the Everest advent calendar and I've had a good trip out west.  After months of wrangling with various bureaucracies, it finally worked for me to pay a visit to the University of Northern Colorado (UNC) in Greeley, Colorado.  I met Chris Mullen in Little Rock, Arkansas at the Association of Experiential Education conference two years ago.  He's Director of Student Engagement at UNC and he seized on an opportunity to bring me out for a speaking event. 

 

In hindsight, I realized this was my first presentation to university students outside of Memorial University and AEE conferences.  I was in a mood to channel my inner stand-up comedian and gave the students an introduction to things Newfoundland and things Canadian.  Since Colorado is a ways south of the border, Tim Horton's isn't a daily ritual and so I had to introduce Velma as a cousin of Dunkin' Donuts.  The room was full of hockey fans and I risked their vengeance to predict that Canada would win gold in both men's and women's hockey.  The audience forgave me later when I invited them all to come up and hold my Olympic Torch.  I left Colorado with a wonderful banner decorated with signatures and well wishes from many of the attendees.  I will hang it where I can see it often in the next few weeks.  Thanks Chris for all your hard work!

 

As part of my stay in Colorado, I had the privilege of meeting Alan Arnette in person. We met for lunch and I appreciated Alan's sharing of his experience over 7500 metres, his perspectives on my preparations, and his attendance at the evening's event.  He and I have followed each other's climbs over the past four years.  Alan, (http://www.alanarnette.com), in honour of his mother, is climbing the Seven Summits to raise one million for Alzheimer's research.  Alan also does an excellent job in covering Everest climbing seasons.  His website is an excellent source of up-to-date information on all Everest expeditions and of fascinating interviews of Everest climbers.  Alan even has an I-Phone app for tracking expeditions this year–download it today so you don't miss any news from the mountain!  Thanks Alan for all of your hard work in sharing Everest expeditions with the world.

 

After Colorado, I flew up to Edmonton to spend some time with my family, make another pilgrimage to Mountain Equipment Co-op, and watch lots of Olympic coverage.  One of the highlights of this visit west was going wall climbing with Rayne and Xander.  I loved belaying Rayne as she climbed to the top of several climbs smiling and waving down to "Auntie" from above.  Rayne is taking a weekly climbing class and she was so proud of her ability to put on a harness, tie a figure eight knot, and introduce Xander to the gym.  Xander was rather taken with the bouldering cave and he might have a future as a luger since he loved sliding down the cave's padded floor.

 

After a big afternoon of climbing, Rayne, Xander and I cuddled while cheering on the Canadian women in the big gold medal game.  That night, Mike and Shawn headed off to a movie and I had a recent "Ring of Fire" challenge trying to get the kids to sleep.  Shawn says she's always willing to contribute to my mental training.  As I've watched the Olympics, I've taken inspiration from so many athletes–their intense training and focus, their pushing through physical and mental barriers, and their deeply moving stories of tragedy and triumph.  I feel like one of the things I am packing into my big duffel bags is as much inspiration as will fit!

 

As I am typing this, my mom and I are watching the women's gold medal curling game.  Both my mom and dad played the game for years and I played in high school as well.  Being back here, I miss my dad even more than usual but I've packed up a few of my dad's tools and things to take home.  On my next visit to Marble Mountain, I'll be making tracks on a pair of my dad's skis.  We had lunch with Oma yesterday–she brightened with my visit but she has been so missing my dad.  In reality, all of us are missing our Heinz!

 

Speaking of inspiration, I'm hoping my expedition will motivate you and others to be more physically active!  In partnership with Recreation Newfoundland and Labrador (RNL), I am pleased to announce "Step Up to the Summit Challenge."  The challenge begins March 18th and continues through May 31st.  RNL's Small Steps, Big Results website allows individuals and teams to track a wide variety of physical activity by converting all to a number of steps.  I'll be reporting in on my number of steps per day in my daily updates and I'm hoping you will climb the mountain along with me.  Sign up your team for the challenge today at http://www.recreationnl.com/smallstepsbigresults.

 

Have a good week,

 

TA



--

*******************************************************************************
Everest 2010: Mountain of Learning

Please support the Everest 2010: Mountain of Learning Award at Memorial University of Newfoundland.  

Visit the  Memorial website at  the following URL: https://www5.mun.ca/dir/viking.gv020.p001
and be sure to click the button for the award.

TA Loeffler Ph.D.,  Professor
3M National Teaching Fellow
School of Human Kinetics and Recreation
Memorial University of Newfoundland
St. John's, NL A1C 5S7

TA's Website:  www.taloeffler.com
Phone: 709-737-8670
Fax: 709-737-3979
Office:  PE 2011A
Email Office:  taloeffler@mun.ca
Email Home:  taloeffler@gmail.com

Those who lose dreaming are lost.
Australian Aboriginal Proverb

Courage is the price that life exacts for granting peace.  The soul that knows it not, knows no release from little things; Knows not the livid loneliness of fear, nor mountain heights where bitter joy can hear the sound of wings.
Amelia Earhart

Remember that the most difficult tasks are consummated not by a single burst of energy or effort, but by consistent application of the best you have within you.
Og Mandino
*******************************************************************************

Monday, February 22, 2010

Everest Advent: TA's Weekly Update Feb. 22, 2010

Howdy,

 

I can't believe another week has flown by and I've added another 16.6 ascents of Signal Hill into the mix!  The tire pulling crew dragged their way up 3.5 times this week and we were joined by Deb Shortall who impressed us all by pulling on the way up and running her way to the bottom–she also helped with logistics by providing us with a few lifts up in her van as well.

 

My Everest "Advent" calendar started this week on Feb. 19…instead of a pre-Christmas countdown, the $.42 post Noel NHL themed bargain, is helping me mark and celebrate and motivate during the last 32, no 31, no 30, no 29 days until we leave for Nepal.  I'm thankful to Michelle and Kellie who provided me with a high quality chocolate substitute for the bargain version that was emerging from each hidden door.  Each day, the serotonin released through the ingestion of high quality cocoa solids helps soothe the ragged nerves of a to do list that grows instead of shrinks, the panic that I need to be doing more training not less, and the myriad of other emotions that occur in rapid succession these days.

 

All kidding aside, I am getting more and more excited to go.  The training deposits are in the bank, the gear is being organized into labeled bins, and it will be March 23rd before I know it.  People are reaching out to help in both big and small ways. 

 

I'd like to introduce two new sponsors who've come aboard the Everest 2010 Mountain of Learning team.  The Newfoundland and Labrador Credit Union, (https://www.nlcu.com/Home/).  is a proud Camp Three sponsor and I appreciate their support.   RJG Construction (http://rjgconstruction.com/) is a Camp Four sponsor and they have helped me out tremendously by updating my satellite phone to a much lighter and more advanced version.  Known as the "Earth Movers", RJG Construction is helping put a solid financial footing under the expedition with that burden (and my phone burden) feeling much lighter these days. 

 

I am continuing to seek sponsorship so please continue to send leads and suggestions my way.  There are also many ways to support my efforts and the expedition.  I still need lots of small items like lithium batteries, hand and foot warmers, and trail snacks.  I always appreciate having small notes of encouragement to open while on the mountain–you can send these along to my home address (7 Wood Street, St. John's, NL, A1C 3K8).  You can make a donation to the Everest 2010 Mountain of Learning Award at Memorial University:  URL: https://www5.mun.ca/dir/viking.gv020.p001

and be sure type Everest 2010 Mountain of Learning Award in the box.  You can also post notes in inspiration on the various websites on which you follow my adventures.

 

I'll post these again closer to the expedition but here are the websites where you can follow me up the mountain.

 

1)    TA's Website:  http://www.taloeffler.com  (Updates will be posted here daily)

2)    My Everest:  http: http://www.myeverest.com/ta  (Updates will be posted here daily and you can sign up for email notification)

3)    TA's Facebook Group: http://www.facebook.com/home.php - !/group.php?gid=102972039777  (Updates will be posted here daily and members messaged at regular intervals)

4)    TA's Email Group:  If you get a weekly email from me now, you will continue to get a digest form of updates from the mountain at regular intervals.

 

I'm headed off on "Road Trip" out west for the week doing a few presentations and visiting my family and trying to train on the road!  Thanks for all the encouragement you'll send along both before and on the expedition–it helps me keep going taking it step by step both on the way to and up the mountain.

 

Have a good week,

 

TA

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Life in the Zone(s): TA's Weekly Update Feb. 14, 2010

Happy Valentine's Day,

 

I try to pay close attention to my heart.  Both my physical heart and my emotional heart.  On this day, where we celebrate the loves in our lives, I thought I would write about a connection I've been making lately from my training to my life.  In almost all of my training, unless I forget to put it on, I wear a heart rate monitor.  At a glance, I can see the rate at which my heart is beating in beats per minute.  I can use this number, along with the physical sensations that go with it, to gauge the intensity of the workout I am doing.

 

A common system of physical training uses heart rate zones.  There are various formulas (each with their own limitations) you can use to set up your training zones.  Most of these formulas start with your maximum heart rate.  This is the fastest your heart can beat-you'd know it on this particular day because it was the rate your heart was beating when you first realized you were falling in love with your sweetie.  Another way people find it is through VO2 Max testing or various other tests that involve upping your intensity in an activity in increments until your heart (or you) can't go any faster.  I found mine by wearing my heart rate monitor and noting the highest heart rate I saw recorded…mine is 185.

 

People used to think that our max heart rate was 220 minus our age and that max heart rate declined with age.  From what I understand now, if we stay in good physical condition, our max heart rate doesn't have to decline with age.  Another interesting thing is that max heart rate is unique to you and unique to each activity you do.  My max heart rate in hockey is different than in hiking than in swimming and likewise, we shouldn't make the mistake of comparing our max heart rates–just because mine is higher or lower than yours doesn't mean anything about our relative fitness.

 

Another important heart rate number is your resting heart rate.  Ideally this is taken first thing in the morning before you move or get up.  Sometimes you find it by sleeping in your heart rate monitor or by having your basal metabolic rate tested.  My resting heart rate is about 40 these days.  Our resting heart rate is a good indicator of fitness as resting heart rates do decline with increased fitness because the heart becomes more efficient at doing its job.  I monitor my resting heart rate fairly often because a rise in it is an indicator of overreaching or overtraining (which I am trying very hard to avoid this time).

 

Back to heart rate zones…so the formula I use is called the Karvonen method that uses something called the heart rate reserve.  The heart rate reserve is your maximum heart rate minus your resting heart rate.  So my heart rate reserve is 145 and I can use this number to set my training zones (have I lost you yet?). 

 

So, my maximum heart rate is 185.
My resting heart rate is 40.
My heart rate reserve is 145.

My Zone 1 (long slow activity) would be in between:
Low value: 40 + 60 % * 145 = 127 beats per minute
High value: 40 + 70 % * 145 = 142 bpm

My Zone 2 (easy aerobic) would be in between:
Low value: 40 + 70 % * 145 = 142 bpm
High value: 40 + 80 % * 145 = 156 bpm

My Zone 3 (anaerobic threshold) would be in between:
Low value: 40 + 80% * 145 = 156 bpm
High value: 40 + 90% * 145 = 163 bpm

My Zone 4 (high intensity intervals) would be in between:
Low value: 40 + 90 % * 145 = 163 bpm

High value: 40 + 100 % * 145 = 185 bpm

 

Each zone invokes a different physiological response in the body and depending on your training goals, your training program would prescribe different amount of time spent in each zone over the course of a training week or training phase.  Some coaches use four zones, some use six and some use as many as eight.  Each person will have a unique set of zone boundaries based on their individual parameters.

 

As you can probably surmise, the intensity of the work also varies with the zone.  In Zone One, you can workout for hours and this provides a solid endurance base.  In Zone Four, you can only work out for 30 seconds to a minute without needing to rest–it's really hard work and tough to stay with.  So here's the kicker (a tribute to the freestyle skiers at the Olympics–the kicker is the jump they use to get airbourne)…

 

This week I saw that my physical heart has zones but my emotional heart/soul/life has them too!  I saw that I could divide my life into various zones that call upon me to adapt to different stresses/tasks/demands.  With Marian's surgery and my dad's death, the last six weeks of 2009 were pretty much in Zone Four and to balance that out I found that I've really needed to keep the first six weeks of 2010 in Zones One and Two! 

 

Life in Zones One and Two hums along with quiet efficiency and grace.  Zone Three things begin to get much tougher but are still manageable and Zone Four requires that I go all out, use multiple coping strategies, and reach out for support.  I think sometimes it's easy to get caught up in keeping life in the upper zones and getting off on the adrenaline that courses through us with that level of stress.  I know it's been my goal in general, and in specific to Everest to intentionally keep life/training at a manageable level so that I attain of my goal of arriving at the mountain well trained yet well rested.  It's been a challenge to remind myself of that goal and make decisions accordingly but I'm loving life in the lower zones!

 

If by chance, I've piqued your interest in heart rate zone training/testing and you live in St. John's, my sponsor Allied Health Services at Memorial University does both VO2 max and basal metabolic rate testing (http://www.mun.ca/hkr/ahs/about/).  Besides thinking about life in the zone, I had a good week of training both using the hypoxic training gear and working out with Phil Alcock at the Core Health Spa (http://www.corehealthspa.ca/).  You can see some photos of some of the unique workouts Phil has me do in this gallery:  (Training With Phil ).

 

I also paid a visit to one of my other sponsors, AppleCore Interactive, and shared lunch and a bit of inspiration with their staff.  They got to meet Flat Stanley and see pictures of the fake apple I pinched from the fruit at AppleCore in 2006.  Here's the AppleCore blog entry about the visit:  (AppleCore Blog).  For my last link of this link filled paragraph, the Tire Pullers and I were caught in action by CBC on Thursday where we were doing our biggest pull to date…a Three Pull!  You can see the video clip here: CBC Video

 

Okay…need to finish up so I can get some supper and catch some Olympics!  Need a dose of Olympic inspiration!  Go Canada Go!

 

Thanks for zoning in instead of zoning out!

 

TA

 



--

*******************************************************************************
Everest 2010: Mountain of Learning

Please support the Everest 2010: Mountain of Learning Award at Memorial University of Newfoundland.  

Visit the  Memorial website at  the following URL: https://www5.mun.ca/dir/viking.gv020.p001
and be sure to click the button for the award.

TA Loeffler Ph.D.,  Professor
3M National Teaching Fellow
School of Human Kinetics and Recreation
Memorial University of Newfoundland
St. John's, NL A1C 5S7

TA's Website:  www.taloeffler.com
Phone: 709-737-8670
Fax: 709-737-3979
Office:  PE 2011A
Email Office:  taloeffler@mun.ca
Email Home:  taloeffler@gmail.com

Those who lose dreaming are lost.
Australian Aboriginal Proverb

Courage is the price that life exacts for granting peace.  The soul that knows it not, knows no release from little things; Knows not the livid loneliness of fear, nor mountain heights where bitter joy can hear the sound of wings.
Amelia Earhart

Remember that the most difficult tasks are consummated not by a single burst of energy or effort, but by consistent application of the best you have within you.
Og Mandino
*******************************************************************************

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Shakedown for the Summit: TA's Weekly Update Feb. 6, 2010

Happy Snow Day,

 

Sitting here in my chair after an epic climb of Signal Hill to do some gear testing in today's big blizzard.  When I saw the forecast, "Snow at times heavy and blowing snow. Amount 20 cm. Wind west 60 km/h gusting to 80 except gusting to 110 along parts of the coast. High minus 4," I couldn't resist going out in it.  As St. John's winter weather is often mild, it's hard to find extreme conditions to test combinations of clothing and gear in but this week was an exception.  You can check out today's shakedown mission here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=379576&id=509940550&l=af2633e943

 

Some will remember that last February, I ventured north to Iqaluit to attend a polar training program led by Matty McNair.  "One of the key factors of any polar expedition," Matty coached, "is the shakedown."  She hounded us over and over again to experiment, test, recombine, futz, retest, and retool our gear and clothing systems before any big expedition.  Matty suggested that all gear be chosen at least one year out so there would be ample time for testing and then adapting systems.  I hear her loud and clear and have been evaluating clothing I have used in the past and acquiring some new items in the meantime.

 

I'm on a two-month countdown rather than Matty's suggested 12 months but am making good progress towards clothing combinations for various conditions and elevations.  Tuesday night delivered fairly cold temperatures (for here) and a good stiff wind resulting in a wind chill of minus 27 Celsius.  After playing two games of hockey, it was time for a different set of "padding."  When climbing the upper reaches of Everest, climbers often choose to cloth themselves in a down suit.  Rather like a sleeping bag with arms and legs, the down suit provides warm to slow moving climbers (remember high on the mountain it can take four to six breaths to take each step) in the super low temps of high altitude.

 

Given I am a fairly warm-bodied creature who pumps out heat rather easily, I have often feared immolation if I ever tried to wear my down suit inside.  Marian was game for a late night visit to the top of Signal Hill to take the suit through its paces (actually its zippers.)  I discovered that certain zipper pulls used for certain elimination tasks were too short and needed lengthening–good to know now rather than being stuck with an open zipper that I can't reach at 8000 metres.  Marian drove me up and was kind enough to record the evening's antics/costume for posterity.  You can check out the her artwork here:

 

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=378641&id=509940550&l=18eff3d5ae

 

Wearing the down suit is an intense experience as its fluffy folds cut you off from the environment and create kinda of a sensory deprivation situation.  Add to the suit a practice oxygen mask and goggles and the transition to urban astronaut is complete!  Wearing goggles makes it a challenge to see your feet; add the practice mask and that challenge doubles.  The practice mask had its air intake near the bottom of the mask so every time I tried to look down, my air supply was completely cut off thus being an even more realistic rendition of high altitude.  The winds were strong enough to move us around a bit as we climbed up to the summit cairn near the Ladies Lookout.  I'm hoping for a few more low temp wind chill moments to go out again with a few more combinations of clothing layers underneath my Pillsbury Dough Boy suit but overall it kept me quite cozy!

 

This was a fifty percent week.  The break in training hours and intensity gave me a chance to catch up on a few tasks and attend a few appointments.  The first part of the week seemed to be filled with "summit" energy–things were cruising along and feeling great.  The second part of the week was filled with more "valley" energy–things seemed harder and I felt more fatigued.  Funny, how I can be more tired during a rest week than during a big training week.  Having both energies in close proximity reminded me that it's good to practice being with/in the valley sometimes.  Of course, the summit is much more fun but like the tide, energy ebbs and flows.  The key is to flow with it and not attaching too much meaning to either end of the spectrum.  I noticed my mind's temptation to ramp up a bunch of doubt as my energy flagged.

 

I thought back to my 2007 expedition and wondered what effect arriving at base camp with bronchitis had on my entire experience.  I'm guessing it sent me careening towards the valley (both figuratively and eventually literally) and set off some of the same thinking I had this week.  I'm grateful for the chance to see it here when my mind is less clouded my altitude.  I can practice working with my mind on it now, do some meditation, and remind myself that likely more than half of the challenge of Everest is mental.

 

A few weeks back at the invite of Michelle (of tire pulling fame), I attend a kickboxing training session.  It was so much fun that I've been going along with her since.  There is something very elemental in learning to punch and kick.  As a kid, I studied judo.  I loved the discipline and learning to throw people and now it's being great to learn to throw punches.  About a year ago, I first gave voice to an idea:  "I want to learn to fight," I said to myself.  I had no idea what that meant or exactly why…other than a long term dream of wanting to bike from Tuktoyaktuk to Tierra del Fuego and wanting to know more about self-defense before taking that on.  I consulted a few friends who'd studied some different martial arts and poked around a few gym websites but never took any action on it.

 

There is always such joy in learning a new skill and this has been no exception.  The outward learning of weight transfer, punching combinations, and intense interval activity is fabulous.  There has been a more subtle inward learning as well related to connecting to a more primal level of assertiveness/anger than I usually experience.  I still don't really know what it all means but I do know it's darn fun and I have a sense it's going to come in handy at about 7500 metres as I "fight" to leave Camp Three for Four.

 

The blizzard abated Saturday morning just in tire for another epic pull up the hill.  I was joined in this somewhat ambitious post blizzard activity by Natelle, Michelle, and Marian.  On the first pull, the snow actually gave us a break reducing the friction we were pulling against.  On the second pull, drifts started depositing snow across the road giving us barriers to surmount and bigger wind chills to guard against.  The last half pull yielded and we could celebrate the longest pull to date 2.5 up and 2.5 back…in all a nearly 3 hour of experience of good, solid, hard work.  Thanks to my tire pulling team mates–you make it all much more fun to do!  Kent Barrett captured us in action and his commentary still has me laughing…check it out here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kentbarrett/4334943080/

 

Marian also captured some of the action on the hill this morning and you can see her photos here:

 

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=379939&id=509940550&l=11b9a4078a

 

I still have Everest 2010 toques for sale.  The have an embroidered Everest 2010 Logo, black knit exterior and pile on the inside for a double layer over the ears.  The toques are $20 each including tax (shipping is extra).  Email me if you are interesting in giving some toques a good home!  I'm also still selling my book, "More than A Mountain: One Woman's Everest."  If you email me and said the codeword "shakedown," I'll give you the conference rate deal of $20 including tax (shipping is extra).

 

Commercial ended…

Hope your week was filled with lots of learning, fun, and you found a few things to shakedown as well.

 

Catch ya in seven,

 

TA





*******************************************************************************
Everest 2010: Mountain of Learning

Please support the Everest 2010: Mountain of Learning Award at Memorial University of Newfoundland.  

Visit the  Memorial website at  the following URL: https://www5.mun.ca/dir/viking.gv020.p001
and be sure to click the button for the award.

TA Loeffler Ph.D.,  Professor
3M National Teaching Fellow
School of Human Kinetics and Recreation
Memorial University of Newfoundland
St. John's, NL A1C 5S7

TA's Website:  www.taloeffler.com
Phone: 709-737-8670
Fax: 709-737-3979
Office:  PE 2011A
Email Office:  taloeffler@mun.ca
Email Home:  taloeffler@gmail.com

Those who lose dreaming are lost.
Australian Aboriginal Proverb

Courage is the price that life exacts for granting peace.  The soul that knows it not, knows no release from little things; Knows not the livid loneliness of fear, nor mountain heights where bitter joy can hear the sound of wings.
Amelia Earhart

Remember that the most difficult tasks are consummated not by a single burst of energy or effort, but by consistent application of the best you have within you.
Og Mandino
*******************************************************************************